DAY 3: Makeup For Males and For Older Women

It's the third day of makeup school and I've learned and did so much today. From correcting and concealing techniques, covering tattoos, male makeup, and the biggest challenge of all, to apply makeup on an older woman.

First, male makeup or "grooming" as it is aptly called, is quite easy. You prep and prime the skin, dab a little foundation then cover some blemishes. The key here is to even out the skin tone. Contouring is also done on the jaw line and for some, if necessary, on both sides of the bridge of the nose. Males must be kept "groomed" as well during special events or on his wedding day, but not too much that he already becomes the "star" of the occasion. It should be the bride, no one else, right? =)

My model is a 20 year old male who has good skin with minor blemishes and marks. The only challenge I had with him was his skin gets irritated quite easily, that's why he had red marks on his face prior to and during makeup application. But over-all, it was quick and we're practically done in less than 10 minutes.

MAKEUP TIP: For males, makeup should be focused on evening out the skin tone on the face, neck and near the hairline. And since males have more oily skin than women in general, any shine on and near the face must be removed. Dabbing foundation using your brush, blender or sponge in a "pat pat" motion is the best way to do it. Afterwards, have them use blotting paper or sheets to remove any extra shine throughout the day. No need for re-applying foundation or retouching as most guys don't like to wear more and more makeup, do they? For lips, apply colorless lip balm (or petroleum jelly, I prefer Carmex) for a few minutes then blot it out completely. The lips should be matte, never shiny. Or else that would look unmanly. haha. =)

Here are his before and after photos.

Before

After

After

Products Used:

Olay Total Effects Wet Cleansing Cloths

Carmex Moisturizing Lip Balm 

Nurturing Force Anti-Shine HD Primer

Graftobian Hi-Def Glamour Creme in Desert Sand, Golden Sunset and Mid. Marigold

Graftobian Corrector/Neutralizer Wheel

Graftobian Concealer Wheel

RCMA No Color Powder

Moving on, as I've mentioned above, we also did makeup for older women. I was assigned to Lola Manuela, the eldest in their group. She's 88 years old, and I was very surprised to see her still very strong to walk around and do things on her own, with very little or no assistance at all! She's also very patient and without any complaints, she would do as I say. Like when I was putting eyeliner on her waterline, she would easily look up when I would say so. She's really a pro! =)

This is Lola Manuela before makeup.

Before Makeup

As you can see from the photo, Lola Manuela has very deep lines and wrinkles, sagging skin, thin lips, discolorations, and her facial bones have become more prominent. These all comes with the aging process. With older women, we need to address all of these concerns. I must admit, it was really a challenge doing her makeup. But I did not complain or anything, I just told myself I would do my best to make Lola Manuela beautiful today. =)

MAKEUP TIP: Remember, with makeup application, the purpose is NOT TO TRANSFORM, BUT TO ENHANCE AND IMPROVE. Most of us always expect complete change and transformation when we apply makeup, but that shouldn't be the case. We must all look as naturally as possible, not a different person in the first place. With older women, we don't need to make their skin totally free from lines or any signs of aging, but we have to make their appearance improve. They must still look like their age or near their age not a teenager. 

With Lola Manuela, I used warm tones all over. Older women should not use cool tones or pink-based make up (and that includes lipstick and blush) because this will make them look pale. I wanted to bring warmth to her skin so I used a peachy blush and added more bronzer than I normally would on younger models. I also did not use any black eyeliner on her because it will make her look even older. Another tip, eyeliner on the lower lash line should be done with a very light stroke only, because if it's very dark, it will look like her eyes are being pulled downwards, thus making the eyes look more sad, saggy and sinking. The upper lash line should be darker than the lower in order to lift the eyes. Shimmery eyeshadow should be avoided at all costs. For Lola Manuela, I skipped contouring because her features are already bony in appearance.

So here's what she looked like with makeup.

With Makeup

I was originally part of the above photo but I just cropped myself because my face was very oily in it! hahaha. =) But that should be okay since it's Lola Manuela's day in the first place. =)

She was very excited to see her photos and was thanking me several times afterwards. I know she's happy with how her makeup turned out and I am more than happy that she feels that way. At least my purpose was achieved. I may have not changed her completely, but I'm very glad that she was all smiles when she left. If this is how rewarding being a makeup artist is, I would not ask for anything more. =)

Products Used:

Olay Total Effects Wet Cleansing Cloths

Carmex Moisturizing Lip Balm 

Cetaphil  Moisturizing Cream

Clarins Instant Smooth Perfecting Touch Primer

Benefit Porefessional PRO Balm

Graftobian Hi-Def Glamour Creme in Desert Sand and Golden Sunset

Graftobian Hi-Def Glamour Creme Blush in Peach Blush and Vienna Rose

Graftobian Corrector/Neutralizer Wheel

Graftobian Concealer Wheel

RCMA No Color Powder

Sanford Prismacolor Ebony Eyebrow Pencil in Jet Black

Too Faced Shadow Insurance

NB 88 Matte Colors Eyeshadow Palette

Graftobian Cake Eyeliner in Espresso Brown

Graftobian Eyeliner Pencil in Medium Brown

Maybelline The Colossal Mascara

NARS Powder Blush in Luster

Graftobian Theatrical Lip Liner in Natural

MAC Twig

Lemme hear your thoughts. =)